Tools and Resources: Baby Knitting Suggestions

By Linda Walsh, 9-16-2004

Elizabeth asked me for some advice and patterns for knitting for the babies in a NICU. I thought a few others might care to know, too.

A child, especially an infant, has a larger surface area in his or her head compared to the rest of the body. And the rest of the body is often dressed or covered otherwise. As a result there is a lot of heat loss in the head of a child compared to the rest of the the body. Plus, in someone who is unwell the calories burned keeping warm are better used for healing and growth.

So, Hats are the best. For a number of reasons. The obvious benefit to the children. And they make up quickly and fairly easily.

Some of the hats we get are made as a garter stitch rectangle that is seamed along the short end and gathered at the top. Those are very fast to make. They do tend to stretch the most.

A simple hat with a bit of flair is made by starting with a tube of i-cord, anywhere from three to eight stitches. Make the i-cord for about two and one half inches then increase in every stitch to double the number then put a marker every sixth or eighth stitch and increase there every other row or so (you decide based on your idea) for a few rows until you have between 60 and 80 stitches. The size of the yarn and needles, plus the number of stitches you start with and work up to determines the finished size. As I had said in my first note, the babies come in all sizes. Tie the icord in a jaunty knot or leave it to stick up ala TeleTubby.

You can keep it in stockinette by knitting every stitch or put in a patterning. Work it until it is as long as you like, at least four inches, then bind off for a rolled edge. Ribbing for a bit for a more snug edge. Be sure the bind off is loose. I use a larger needle or the Icelandic bind off.

The Icelandic bind off is done by knitting two stitches together and putting the resulting stitch back on the needle to bind off with the next unworked stitch. Work it very loose.

Hats that pull on are better than ones that tie.

For Booties or Mittens a long tube worked in the round of most any size and length will fit someone. Figure the range as being from what would fit around one of your fingers to what would fit around four of your fingers.

Yes, some of them are that small. My most memorable little fighter fit without hanging over on the palm of my hand. He was a miracle and a half. Never needed oxygen and as soon as his mother had milk to give him he gobbled it up. And, yes, he is as healthy as you could wish for now. He'll be twelve this Christmas. With the election coming up I am inclined to tell you a bit about his family. They had gone through years of difficulty escaping a terrible homeland then taking years to make their way to becoming American citizens. When asked why they waited so long to have a second child during all their travails the dad replied "We wanted him to be born free". I still tear up when I realize what I have always taken for granted. But, I digress.

If you have access to a book called Homespun, Handknit there is a garter stitch set in there that has a perfect hat for adjusting for small heads. It is based on a repeat of sixteen but can be converted to a repeat of eight or even four to make very small items. I used a lemon to block the one I made using a repeat of four.

A few years ago I posted my FILL IN THE BLANKS Sweater Pattern for the gift list. It is a simple progression very like EZ percentage system. The size of the sweater depends on the yarn and needle you use. The actual stitch count should be twinked to fit the patterning you use. In other words, if it is a six stitch repeat then use 96 or 104 stitches, and so on.

Cast on 100 stitches and work for 50 rows. Divide for the front and back at 25/50/25 stitches. Work the fronts for 45 rows the back for 50. For a vee neck decrease at the neckline every fourth row to 15 stitches. For a crew neck work 35 rows, bind off 10 and decrease every right side row to 15. Join the shoulders with a three needle bindoff or Kitchener it. Pick up in every stitch around the armhole. This makes a huge sleeve that is easy to get a wriggly arm into. Work the sleeve for 45 rows and bind off. You can taper the sleeve if you like after it is about an inch long by decreasing at the underarm every few rows. Decrease to about 25 to 35 stitches at the cuff. Pick up along the edges and make a ribbing and buttonholes or use SHORT ties or velcro. For a vee neck the ribbing can be continuous from one front, around the neck and down the other front. For a crew neck the neckline and fronts are either done singly or must be mitered for a continuous one. Babies could care less about which side the buttons are on.

Now that leaves a lot of "canvas" to paint with stripes, cables, whatever you like, I recommend against lace in the sleeves since tiny fingers can get stuck in the holes. If you use buttons try to use fairly flat ones for when the baby might lie on them briefly.

Elizabeth asked if the sweaters should open in the back or front. These days few babies are left on their tummies after eating due to possible links to SIDS. So front openings are fine.

If you are making something for someone who is more active, that is older and mobile, then back closures like on some hooded sweaters are nice and warm Another personal observation here. We all know that some people are born profoundly unwell but the vast majority of my patients not only get well, they get completely well. It is a never ending delight to watch that happen and know I had a very small part in it. Those of you who make the hats, sweaters, quilts for the tops of the isolettes need to know you had a part in it, too. Thank you.

Linda Walsh